When a weather window finally opened in January, we left Rabat, Morocco behind and set sail—450 nautical miles to the Canary Islands.
The year hadn’t started the way I’d imagined. Morocco was colder than expected, and somewhere along our road trip I picked up a nasty bug that left me wiped out for more than a week. But once I was on the mend, we replaced the through-hulls and pointed Santana toward the open ocean (as you saw in the last video).
The passage itself was grey and a little rolly—not the most dramatic, but not exactly pleasant either. So you can imagine how relieved we were when the clouds finally broke just before landfall. As La Graciosa came into view, the sun appeared as if to welcome us. Dropping the hook into crystal-clear water under a bright sky felt like a small victory after all those miles.
A Quiet Gem in the Canaries
I like La Graciosa. It’s quiet, with only two tiny settlements. The main one has a small marina, a few shops, some restaurants and bars—and it’s all just a short walk from the anchorage. There’s something peaceful about it, a feeling that time moves a little slower there.
Unfortunately, our stay didn’t last as long as we’d hoped. A heavy swell was forecast, the kind that makes anchoring uncomfortable and even unsafe. So we had to move on sooner than we wanted. And, as it turned out, that would become a recurring theme of our time in the Canaries.
The Challenge of Island Swells
For some reason, the Canary Islands seem to catch swell from every direction—even on the leeward side. That makes getting the dogs ashore a real challenge, with some landings more like an adventure than a simple dinghy ride.
After seeking shelter from big, wrapping swells—sometimes over 4 meters—we eventually made our way back to La Graciosa. It felt so good to return to that tiny gem, even just for a few more days. But once again, another weather system rolled through, and it was time to move on toward the southern islands.
Even with the tricky swells and unpredictable weather, there’s something special about cruising the Canaries. You learn to take the calm moments as they come, to adapt when plans change, and to really appreciate the rare days of perfect stillness.
Stay curious, stay salty.
– Floh