Sailing from Sal to Sao Nicolau

After spending some time on Sal, we continued our journey west.

Our plan was to take it slowly: hop from island to island, work our way toward Mindelo, maybe spend time on Santo Antão, and only then point the bow south.

Next stop: São Nicolau.

Sailing from Sal to São Nicolau

On the map it looks like a simple little step. Not that far. Not a “real passage.” And yet, sailing between the Cape Verde islands feels very different than we expected.

Even though the distances are relatively short, you’re still out in the open Atlantic — hundreds of miles away from the mainland. And that changes everything. There’s a certain wildness to it. Less traffic, fewer boats, almost no ships, and thankfully no fishermen at night. The watch schedule is actually quite relaxed in that sense.

But you pay for it with swell and sea state.

Overnight Passage in Cape Verde Winter Conditions

The distance from Sal to São Nicolau was a bit too long to leave and arrive in daylight, so we opted for an overnight passage and planned to take it easy.

What we didn’t know yet was that we’d get the classic Cape Verde winter package: crazy waves, a confused cross sea, gusty winds — and, on top of that, a failing autopilot.

This time it was me who felt absolutely not good. Luckily, Nike took over.

Windpilot and Autopilot Challenges Offshore

We’re still learning where our Windpilot shines and where it struggles. When the gusts get too strong and the waves are too big, it can’t always keep up. And once the boat goes off course, you have to intervene and bring her back. It’s not hard work — but it means you never fully switch off.

That’s what makes sailing here feel so “real.” You’re out there. No coastline close, no quick escape, no comfortable illusion. Just ocean, swell, wind, and a boat that needs attention.

Carriçal: A Remote Fishing Village on São Nicolau

And then — as always — the reward.

We arrived in Carriçal, one of the most lovely remote fishing villages we’ve seen in Cape Verde. Nested around a small, picturesque bay, surrounded by rugged volcanic landscapes, and with these unexpected green valleys that instantly slow you down.

It’s the kind of place where you step ashore and your whole system drops a gear. Quiet streets, simple life, honest faces, and that feeling of being very far away from anything busy.

We explored the village, went hiking into the green volcanic valleys, and enjoyed the local rhythm — and of course some local food too.

This island felt very different.

I hope you enjoy visiting one of our favorite spots in Cape Verde with us.

Have you ever sailed between remote islands like this? I’d love to hear what it was like for you.

Stay curious, stay salty,

Floh