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Home » In-Water Seacock Replacement: What Worked, What Didn’t, and Why We Did It Anyway

In-Water Seacock Replacement: What Worked, What Didn’t, and Why We Did It Anyway

(Untie the Lines – S8E19)

Here we go again—another boat job, another lesson.

Back in November, after launching Santana in Port St. Louis in the South of France, I realized that the seacock for the head (that’s sailor speak for “toilet”) wasn’t working properly. At first, I thought it just needed a little convincing—it felt stiff, but with a bit of force it seemed to move again. Turns out, that was wishful thinking.

The internal connection between the handle and the valve had loosened. And it didn’t take long before it became clear that this wasn’t going to get better over time.

Not long after, one of the cockpit drain valves started to act up as well.

Living With Faulty Valves (And Why That’s Not Ideal)

Normally, I keep the cockpit drain valves open—so any water that ends up in the cockpit can drain immediately. The head valve was still usable, but only if you handled it very carefully. I knew I needed to replace both valves as soon as I could. But that was easier said than done.

Sourcing new through-hull fittings while living aboard is a challenge in itself. We didn’t spend much time in marinas—and when we did, the chandlers were either closed, out of stock, or nonexistent. Ordering online wasn’t easy either. We never stayed long enough in one place for deliveries, and most marinas wouldn’t accept parcels for us.

Which left us sailing around with two faulty seacocks—under the waterline. Not ideal, not safe, and definitely not sustainable.

Rabat: A Window to Get It Done

Once we decided to stay a bit longer in Rabat, I jumped at the chance to finally fix it. I ordered valves that were available—and more importantly, that could be shipped to Morocco.

If you’ve checked out the video, you might have seen the lively debate in the comments—about the type of valves we used and the material we chose. And yes, there’s a lot to say on both.

Ball Valves vs. Gate Valves… and Why We Chose Gate

Let’s start with the type: ball valves vs. gate valves. Everyone has an opinion. Both have their pros and cons. In the end, it comes down to what you prioritize: durability, price, ease of use, or availability. In our case, it was a mix of budget and practicality. And sometimes, that’s just how it goes.

Material Talk: Brass, Bronze, Stainless, or Composite?

Then there’s the question of material.

I ended up using brass valves, because that’s what was available. Yes, I know—they’re not the best long-term solution. Brass is a mix of copper and zinc, and in saltwater, the zinc tends to leach out. That leaves you with weakened copper that can fail without warning. Some brass alloys are more resistant, but bronze is the better choice—provided you can find the right alloy. Stainless steel and composite (reinforced plastic) are valid options too, each with their own strengths and risks.

In short: everything can fail. The key is knowing your materials, understanding the trade-offs, and doing the best you can with what you’ve got.

Temporary Fix, Future Upgrade

The brass valves we installed are a temporary fix. They’re holding up fine for now, but I’ve already ordered proper replacements. I’ll swap them out when I’m back on Santana later this summer.

If you’re living aboard or preparing for your own offshore passage, I hope this gives you a glimpse into the real-life trade-offs we make as sailors. Sometimes it’s not about the perfect setup—it’s about the safest, smartest choice in the moment.

Enjoy the video. Stay curious. Stay salty.
– Floh

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